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Turnigy SK3548-900 shaft removal

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rchrch View Drop Down
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  Quote rchrch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Turnigy SK3548-900 shaft removal
    Posted: 20/Oct/2009 at 12:01am
I purchased a 3548-900 and need to mount it in front of the firewall.  I assume that I can reverse the shaft, but have been unable to remove it from the housing.  The clip and set screw have been removed, but have not been able to get the shaft to budge.  I'll try heating the housing today.  Any suggestions?

Also, how many poles does this motor have?  There doesn't seem to be a data sheet for this motor.


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  Quote SeaComms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20/Oct/2009 at 5:26pm
This motor comes with a bell mounting prop adaptor, which is the recommended way to mount on the front of the firewall. In addition, once this is done there is a collet to be mounted onto the shaft behind the c-clip to give additional security against the shaft pulling out, since all the thrust of the prop will be trying to pull the bell and shaft out of the bearings and off the motor - and the only thing holding around 2 kilo of thrust is that tiny little c-clip on one end and the grub screw locking the bell onto the shaft the other end.

As per this pic from bungymania.com




Edited by SeaComms - 20/Oct/2009 at 5:30pm
Cheers, Dave.
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  Quote rchrch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21/Oct/2009 at 3:11am
Dave...

Thanks for that tip.  Being relatively new to this aspect of RC I didn't recognize this solution as a possibility.  Had I taken a closer look at the adapter and associated hardware I probably would have figured it out.  In any case, the photo you posted explains it well. 

I was surprised that there wasn't a data sheet or other supporting documents included with the motor similar to what I received with a GWS motor I purchased awhile back from a different source.  Is that common with the HobbyKing brands?  Is information about expected performance with different props available online anywhere?

Thanks again. 

Rick...
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  Quote wchiro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21/Oct/2009 at 4:51am
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  Quote rchrch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21/Oct/2009 at 9:15am
Just what I was looking for.  An amazing source for performance information.  Thanks to both of you.

Come to think of it, perhaps you can answer another minor question.  On the end of the shaft that extends from the motor I noticed that there are two shim washers between the bearing and the c-clip.  The c-clip was extremely tight, but with a little effort I could slide it away from the bearing to be able to see the shims clearly.  I noticed that there was a groove in the shaft, but the extra washer prevented the c-clip from dropping into that groove.  Normally I would expect a c-clip like this to seat in the groove, but I'm wondering if that may not be the case in this application.  It definitely would be hard to remove the c-clip if it dropped into the groove.  As you mentioned though, using the collar in addition to the c-clip would would certainly prevent the shaft from pulling out. 

Any thoughts on this one?

Rick...
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  Quote SeaComms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21/Oct/2009 at 8:10pm
Yes - and well caught before any problems occurred.  You have to remember that although these a pretty good motors for the price and I have heaps of them and always sing their praises, they are made to a price and unfortunately quality control is not always what we would expect from a motor costing 5 times the price (to be expected..).

Ok so to the point...  Yes, the c-clip should be sitting in the groove, and in this particular installation configuration I always use the collar as well (and no, have never seen any instructions, just trial and error...)  Mine have only one washer under the clip, I would guess two is too many for the positioning of the shaft. If the clip is not in the groove there is nothing to stop the shaft pulling out in your rear mounted application!

I do like these motors, but I also always go over them before first use to make sure of any discrepancies like this.  Also be very careful of the screws that hold the cross mount to the motor - they are usually too long and when tightened will normally touch the motor coils and with some vibration will cut into the insulation and burn out the wiring.  I screw a 3mm nut onto them, lock the nut in the vice and file about 2mm off the end of the screw. That way it ends up flush with the inside surface of the motor. I also use ome blue locktite on them as once the motor is mounted to the plane you cant get to them to check if they are still tight!  The blue locktite though leaves the screws readily removeable should you need to take the mount off at any stage.

Hope some of that helps, Dave.
Cheers, Dave.
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  Quote rchrch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22/Oct/2009 at 10:32am
Dave...

Your advice worked well.  I have the motor back together with the adapter installed and it's been set up (and running) on my newly constructed test stand.  This will be my first attempt at performance analysis with the Medusa Power Analyzer Pro I purchased recently.  After smoking three motors due to bad prop choices I thought I'd better learn how to properly match the system components.

Rick...


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  Quote SeaComms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22/Oct/2009 at 8:21pm
LOL - good idea Rick.  Personally I havent smoked one myself (yet..), as I always seemed to end up underpropping rather than overpropping, but I picked up a wattsup meter and found it a godsend for checking out this stuff.

Before the wattsup, i was making use of the bungymania website and others reports on the motors in the eshop to get a good starting idea of what to fit it with and what to expect.
Cheers, Dave.
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  Quote rchrch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23/Oct/2009 at 9:21am
Dave...

I had the opposite problem.  I was "over" propping.  With no clue whatsoever about how it should have been done, I would just pick a prop that looked like it might make my lazy Slo Stick out perform the other guys.  I had a GWS motor I picked up somewhere to replace the standard 300.  After a relatively short flight the motor cut out so I landed dead stick in front of me.  As  test I popped the throttle forward to see if it would come alive again.  Well, it came alive alright.  It put out the nicest plume of bright white smoke that you'd ever want to see.  And not once, but three times as I foolishly expected it to suddenly fix itself.  It goes without saying the there were more than just a few snide remarks emanating from the pit area.   

I was able to run the new Turnigy today.   I'll be testing several props to see how close I can come to the published performance data.  It puts out a boat load of thrust though so I have no doubt it will power my E-Flite T-34 Mentor quite nicely.

Rick...
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  Quote wchiro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29/Oct/2009 at 10:53am
I currently use a APC 11X8.5E prop to fly my Great Planes Combat Corsair, weight approx. 3lbs.  I used a 12X6E APC Style prop from HK on my Hanger9 T34 Mentor weight 4-5lbs when I had it.  Couldn't put a larger diameter due to ground clearance.
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