HK Piper Cub L-4 version

Hey Guys,

I'm working my way through the build and getting close to mounting my engine.

I went with the ASP 160 twin. In looking at the the thread here and at the videos on YouTube it looks like you didn't need to re-drill the upper mounting holes for the firewall. Is that correct?

I just need some standoffs and can use the top factory holes to locate the engine?

I also picked up a gas conversion kit from Special Tuned Engines which I hoping will work out well. You never know... The kit consists of a sensor ring, sensor, ignition, and fuel pump. I've read other conversions used head gaskets to shim the head and reduce compression. Max at STE said I didn't need those. Hmmm we'll see...


I plan to use my L-4 for tug duty this year. The tow release is on it's way and I'll need to reinforce the area around the release to spread the loads.


Any info you can give me on mounting the 160 and ballast needed would be a great help in these final stages of my build. Lot's of other projects to finish up before the fly season starts!

Thanks for a great thread, this has been a great help.


Joe

Thanks Roachie,

I will get to look at the engine mounting this weekend, a quick overview of things last night it looked like a reaming of the original holes was the simple solution.

I was thinking of a bell crank set up for the throttle, but I wont really know till I get to that point.

I've spent a fair amount of time just making sure things are working smooth and up to tug duty. I used Robart round hinges on the ailerons and cloth on the tail. Except I pinned all the tail hinges in addition to the normal gluing. If the ever give me trouble I'll just cut the flippers off and use Robart round hinges.

I also went with a two servo set up on the elevator. I see lots of people here flying on the one servo set up, but I really didn't like the binding I was getting from the factory rod and tube. So I went down a size in rod and used a carbon tube over the rear of the rod were it's exposed to the elevator in the rear. This keeps the flex down to nothing and reinforces things nicely.

I don't really have any photos yet. I will take some this weekend to post.

I do have one shot of the custom pushrods I built. I copied a designed of a friend of mine that owns a LHS. So I call them Flightline Control Rods...

Cut a threaded rod to length, cut an aluminum tube to cover all but the threads needed for a ball link and clevis ends, spin on a nut to mark the final position of the aluminum tube, remove the aluminum tube, slather the threaded rod with JB Weld, push the aluminum tube back on over the threaded rod and spin a nut onto the back side to capture the tube, make sure everything is tidy/lined up, and clean the exposed threads with some rubbing alcohol.

When done you have a nice custom length control rod that is really really strong. Add an extra nut to one side as a lock nut and assemble your control linkage.

Can't see how to upload a photo here, so posted a pic in in my favorite program, Evernote. Here's the link.

https://www.evernote.com/shard/s167/sh/a88b968c-0e9e-4865-aa8f-a78a15a7ec12/9ef6468eae461c8a9532bde3ab5a0298

If you have photos of your 160 install I'd love to see them. Every little bit helps.

Joe




Edited by joespeeder - 21/Mar/2013 at 2:19am

I agree...
the covering is quite bad.