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Belatrike Build Thread

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  Quote J7-Pilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Belatrike Build Thread
    Posted: 06/Mar/2011 at 11:50pm
There have been some comments that the new gondola (Beladog Design) does not come with any instructions on how to put it together.  Well, it took me only about 8 hours or so for the complete build and I want to share some issues I encountered while doing so, together with more detailed pictures.
Together with the gondola I ordered two servos Blue Bird BMS-630MG which fit perfectly.  I already had a brushless outrunner Turnigy C3542-1000 and a 50A BEC.
The pieces all came loose in a cardboard box secured with bubble wrap.  Aircraft aluminum stamped and bent pieces have blue protective film on them that I removed first.  Next use a suitable file and sandpaper to remove the sharp edges on the stamped pieces( don't skip this step).  Bolts nuts and other hardware were included in separate plastic bags.


Start with the U shaped bottom tray and install the landing gear.  Strangely, the Allen bolts have a 2mm hex hole and a7/32" stop nut on the other end so you'll need Standard and Metric tools. 

 When installing the front wheel note that a brass bushing goes on the side between wheel and strut as a spacer.  Also, you will have to drill out the wheels to allow for the 5/32" diameter axles.

Next install the largest piece of the kit, the slanted tower that holds motor, servos and fan attachments. The assembly on top of that tower is best built separately and then attached to the tower. 


 Now get out your motor and see how it fits into the motor bracket.  Attach the motor to the bracket and also install your propeller.  See how the assembly fits into the structure and if the propeller plane will match the future location of the fan shroud.  In my case, I had to move the motor bracket 10mm forward to make room for my particular motor.  If necessary, drill 4 new holes (3mm) for the motor bracket and install it.

"Ideally, we have, or convert the motor to "front can mount" and install the motor in the enclosed box like this. (image and txt inserted by Beladog)"

Next install the shroud holders, only those on the sides and top.  I then attached the two blue fiberglass shroud pieces to the bottom aluminum holder, together with the fiberglass reinforcement on the inside of the shroud.  

Next I installed the shroud and bolted it to the two side holders (be careful not to crack the fiberglass when bending).  Then the tops of the fiberglass pieces get attached to the top holder.  I fabricated a 40x15mm aluminum reinforcement piece (1.5mm thick) that goes over the top attachment to force the fiberglass strips into a perfectly round shape.  Only then did I bolt the bottom piece that holds the shroud onto the bottom tray. 

I inserted the Allen bolts from the inside out with a standard 2mm angled wrench and put the stop nuts on the outside.  It's a very narrow assembly.
The servos were attached after gluing plywood pieces to the inside of the stamped out openings.  That way I could use the wood screws that come with the servos to bolt them into place. 
 Another change I made to the kit was in spreading the line holders to the 180 mm or so that Beladog said they should be set at.  This was done by bolting a flat alu piece on top of the outward bending contraption that sits atop the tower. 

Overall the build was easy and quick, the result in very sturdy indeed, as Beladog said it needs to be.  I hope it'll fly as well as it looks!



Herb

edited by Beladog per Herb's request (loaded pics)


Edited by Beladog - 09/Mar/2011 at 5:02am
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  Quote Beladog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/Mar/2011 at 11:14am
Great Thread Herb! Thanks for jumping on this. From the looks of the stock HK photos the trile is an almost exact replica of what I sent themThumbs Up  I am glad to hear yours feels as sturdy as it should ( You will all thank the designer for that after your first flights)Wink.

I added a pic to your thread of the proper motor mount installation. Your method will work great for firewall mounted cans. The front mounted cans or reversible shaft motors will benefit from the method I posted above in that the prop will better center in the shroud.
  



Edited by Beladog - 09/Mar/2011 at 5:06am
Thats the ugliest hat Ive ever seen...looks good on you though.
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  Quote penichard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/Mar/2011 at 12:41am
to beladog and to J7 pilot
 
many thanks guys for your job
i just finish to assemblate my new HK gondola ('super cool!!!)
is it necessary to aplly the next  modification 
"Another change I made to the kit was in spreading the line holders to the 180 mm or so that Beladog said they should be set at.  This was done by bolting a flat alu piece on top of the outward bending contraption that sits atop the tower. "
the gondola from HK has a distance of 105mm between elevators
not enough for a good and stable fly??
thanks
 
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  Quote Beladog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/Mar/2011 at 10:13am
try it stock firstThumbs Up. Most will find it ok with the proper weight and balance.
surely the modification will not hurt performance, but most will not find it necessary.

Thats the ugliest hat Ive ever seen...looks good on you though.
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  Quote Beladog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/Mar/2011 at 10:16am
A quick note to all. This trike needs to to weigh around 1.5kg!!! The trike will not come close to this number with even the largest battery installed. In the Pre-Flight and Launch Technique thread you will now find suggestion on proper ballasting of the trike as well as some easy mounting solutions.

Edited by Beladog - 10/Mar/2011 at 11:45am
Thats the ugliest hat Ive ever seen...looks good on you though.
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  Quote penichard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/Mar/2011 at 1:59am
to beladog
thanks for your answer
i will try first without modification
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  Quote J7-Pilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/Mar/2011 at 11:01pm
Jake,

After adjusting AoA on the parafoil like you suggested, I tried the hand pop-up and then the brake line adjustments.  No matter what I adjust, the chute turns as it pops up and then heads downward.  It does NOT stay up even when I move against the wind (very light at that time) at a fairly good pace. 
What am I doing wrong?  I'm concerned about attaching the foil to the trike, it seems uncontrollable.  I should say I have plenty of experience flying all kinds of RC models.
Thanks,
Herb
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  Quote Beladog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14/Mar/2011 at 11:38am
Ok, the foil will not kite...easily that is. You will not be able to fly it overhead for a given period with out proper weighted pendulum and constant brake adjustment. Instead you should just try to get it to rise straight. That being said, sounds like your brake lines are too tight and one more than the other. When you release both lines does it still turn on pop up? which direction does it rotate?
I would attach the bridles to the trike and not the brakes and do some more brake line tensioning testing. Its much easier with the trike. If you are not able to get the foil to pop up straight by adjusting the brakes then write back and we will delve further into this.
Thats the ugliest hat Ive ever seen...looks good on you though.
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  Quote Sfakias Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16/Mar/2011 at 3:48am
Sorry for the dumb question, but is there a reason why the pictures of this particular thread do not display in my browser (Google chrome)? Thx.
To the skies!
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  Quote Beladog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16/Mar/2011 at 1:46pm
keep checking back. They come and go. It should be sorted this week.
Best.
Thats the ugliest hat Ive ever seen...looks good on you though.
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