This really nice little Sbach 342 is a very attractive and nicely made park fly aerobatic model and is perfect for either sport flying or 3D with the right set up.
The construction is excellent, the result being a light yet strong airframe, the superb looking covering has been expertly applied and the included decals really finish this great looking model off. All hardware is included and is nice quality, for instance, the horns and wing tube are CF, the under-carriage a sturdy brushed alloy and the wheel spats are moulded plastic for durability.
The Sbach 342 has become the plane of choice for so many 3D pilots with its winning combination of capability and sheer good looks. This fantastic little park flyer gives looks every bit as nice as the much larger models, it is nicely priced and will be cheap to get airborne, a winner all round, this Sbach 342 is a classy little aerobatic model!
Hola, este modelo viene bastante grudito, hay que retocar bastantes cosas, no creo que el precio este bien. El estabilizador horizontal es muy dificil de montar, el canopi queda muy poco sujeto, las tubos de las varillas internas, tambié*n hay que retocarlos, al igual que el cajeado de los servos, para colmo me llega el fuselaje partido y como siempre, no dan solució*n. En fin todo una ganga.....
CG..the instructions say the CG is 60mm from leading edge of the wing at the fuselage. this seems too far forward. even with battery as far forward as possible model seems tail heavy at that CG location. don't want to add weight if don't have to. has anyone flown and tested this CG.is it correct or can it be moved back a little?
this plane is designed to be flown tail heavy for aerobatics and hovering you will have to move the battery back if you are just wanting a flyable plane and balance accordingly cant really tell you whee just depends on battery type and size. good luck
btw Richard, Elevators use one pushrod. Epoxy glue one elevator side only to the connecting rod. Pre fit elevator hinges for both sides but don't glue hinges into stab. Epoxy stab into fuse. Now maneuver the rod/elevator half through the opening in fuse at rear of stab. Epoxy the the other elevator to the rod and lastly hinge assembly to stab. Elevator servo opening is directly in front of stab.
I've built it 98% but was wondering if anyone else has finished it. The linkages are precise ball and socket but are bulky like they are meant for a bigger version. Intend to use a turnigy 2217 860kv, 3S with 11x4.5 slow prop. Seems it needs a wopping 4 oz. of nose weight. So now unsure if it will 3D with my current motor. Has anyone flown this model...tks
I just received the Sbach ARF 1000mm and I'm trying to figure out how to build it. How does the elevator get built whereby both sides of it are controlled by the one pushrod that is supplied for it. I don't see anything in the instruction for how to connect the two sides.
Thanks marciomc. the picture cleared everything up for me. that pic was not with the .pdf that came with the model. did not find the step-by-step you referred to. also do you happen to know what the 4 black carbon graphite looking accessories are for. they almost look like connectors of some kind.
The description of this plane "is perfect for either sport flying or 3D with the right set up."* only one setup is listed. I am very interested in this plane. Before I buy, I would like to see a list of what I need for 3d (or at least a light powerful setup suggestion, including estimated flight times if possible)
The omega 72g would be great in this plane, it is what is used in the "buck huck". Up to 425watts on a 72g is nearly unmatchable. It's cheap too at $45.00, maybe 15 bucks more than the off brand equivalant weighing 50%more.
Sorry I got it mixed up with the two Pitts I have. The one Pitts with the DT700 motor swinging a 10x4.7 prop 1600 4s Nano, Castle 36ESC, has 300 watts at 40amps static with many flights no problems. The other one that kicks 600watts is a 3542 motor in it.
no! this is the v2 and it flies pretty good. low speed it rocks a little but it is a small bird and it is expected some because of its size. with recomended gear this thing really flies quick and snap rolls are awesome.
the 'v1' kit is the one with a carbon fiber firewall and landing gear. This 'v2' kit has been said to have fixed the balance issues somewhat, the battery apparently has to be rather far forward but this one can be more than flyable without having to rebuild the tail section.
exactly what Dark Fox said. I own the v2 and this is exactly what came in my kit as well. and like dark fox said it will need the battery to move forward to the nose but it is a easy relocation and it flies well not to great al low speed but speed maneuvers are great and it is a blast to fly
Azhelicrasher**- well I took detailed pix of EVERYTHING damaged, itemized everything in the aloted time period. Took a week for the file to get to the appropriate desk only to hear "we need more info" ??? What more info ??? That all I've heard. It's been a week now....
Maiden flight today. It was more of a handful than I expected. RE-GLUE EVERY JOINT with medium CA. I ran a Exceed 480 910kv 2200 3s 20c APC 12x6 and is still badly under powered. Will swap motor and fly tomoro !!!
. I had a horrible time trying to fly this thing. Bought two.slow speed sucked. I sold it on Craigslist that week. 12-7 prop 910 kv 3s 1600. Battery shoved alllllll the way in the cowl. IT'S NOT A 3D PLANE. IT'S A RACER it looks better than it flies. I RECOMEND. 3DHOBBYSHOP****.
Thanks Justin for the response. O hell yeah hands down the huck is superb in fatty 3d so is the 35 inch profile sabre from VH..I was lookn around to try my hand at a cheap pattern flying plane. mostly a beater with fast and slow down flying style..may try the monolog over at np its cheap.I'm just getting board with my pylon and hotliners need a change up.thanks
what an amazing plane. I couldn't be happer with the build and performance of this plane. My only issue with this plane was the landing gear is a little weak for grass landings i cut out the balsa landing gear and replaced it with plywood
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Maidend my plane and It’s not a glider and will tip stall at any loss of air speed. Must be landed with reasonable speed and power all the way home.
First thing guys don't use the small short clevises that came with the plane. They are weak and too short to lock the horns in, any little pressure and they pop out, even with a tube/ring. I changed them all. Also changed the thin tyers.wheels for fatter one to fly off grass. I also coated/brushed the firewall and all the balsa under the cowl with thin CA to toughen it up (read this on RC groups).
I used a 3542 1000kV motor and it fit perfectly. 40A ESC. Prop was 11X5 and nanotech 4S 2200mAh pushed all the way forward to get the CG right. Lots of Expo 60pcnt on all to tame it down. Flies well on half throttle hardly used full power in flights. will 3D with right pilot (Not me yet :) and Knife edges and spins well. Should get 6-8miniuts out of the 4S 2200mAh easily.
I think people using the the smaller motors (480), should use a bigger prop 12x6 and a heavier 3S or would be better on 4S. Good luck.
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Nice airplane,well covered and pretty color scheme. Plane flys very nice but has a fast landing speed. I put a Turnigy 4240 motor on 3cell 2200 MA that has this plane climb straight up. Make sure you check your landing gear mounts and apply thin CA.