The Wraith 1200 is one of a devilishly good range of exclusive Hobbyking Performance gliders that offer you quality, looks and speed at a saintly good price.
The Wraith has a nicely finished composite fuselage and expertly built and covered balsa wings and tailplane. As you would expect, the wing is removable for easy transportation & fast field assembly, also the Wraith uses a V-tail configuration for excellent speed and handling. There is a comprehensive hardware kit supplied and for the final touch, the canopy is carbon fiber.
There is no doubt, the Wraith has been designed for performance, this is a nice quality ARF model that any RC Pilot would be proud to own, performance was never so affordable!
Features: V-Tail configuration Removable wing for easy transport CF canopy and wing tube Easy build with instructions included Excellent quality Composite fuselage Excellent flight performance
Estou tendo muitos problemas para montar este modelo. Os servos indicados nã*o cabem e nem existe nenhum modelo disponí*vel no site que caiba. Decepcionado també*m com as peç*as que vieram faltando na parte da linkagem. Compramos dois modelos, eu e um amigo e em ambos faltaram peç*as. Vou ter que serrar a fuselagem para caber os servos. O que a Hobbyking fará* a respeito?
This model is great for the slope especially if the wind is around 15kph , I have tried hand launch at the flying field, but it is a little heavy for thermaling. If you could get some height off the slope or from a bungee launch, you may get some reasonable flight times.
I have set mine up at the recommended CG of 230mm from the nose, or 40mm back from the leading edge of the wing. It looks a little far forward to me but I will test it over the next few days and make adjustments.
I have fitted the HK15322MG Slim Wing Servo into this model by cutting off the tabs and using double sided tape to fix the servo to the backing plate. The servo will put some pressure on the topside film and will make a little indentation there. I have also used a small packing piece (balsa) under the trailing edge of the backing plate to reduce the ***p on the top, it works well and the underside looks ok. (I will take a photo and put it under the file tab).
Yes, we need to drill the wing. Strength affects slightly. Perhaps this is a good thing in falls. I was surprised when, after a very hard landing (low battery) on the ground were two halves completely entire wing and fuselage 10 cm left in the ground.
Use a small piece of plywood or hard plastic sheeting to make a plate to fit under the screws when attaching to the fuselage, this will help to spread the load over a wider area and use nylon wing bolts that can break or shear off in a hard landing to reduce the amount of damage to the wing.
Just to let everyone know, I bought one of these under a different brand name, they realy fly very very well off the slope and bungee launched.... 10 out of 10.
But I found that after a couple of landing that involved twisting of the wings/fuselage, cracks and then a break developed in the fuzz/wing fitting area and the whole area had to be re-built and strengthened, might be worth doing before you start the build.
A couple of CF solid rods along either side of the fuzz, inside so as to extend 20mm forward and rearward of the opening and fiber glassed in fixed my problem.
Sorry, forgot to mention.... Orange Rx fitted under wing also, lots of room. I also ran a small extension lead to the front to plug my Rx battery pack into, that way you dont have to remove the wings every time.
thanks was thinking that but there no screws in the (my) kit, also would like it so I can take the wings apart for transportation,,,, that leafs me where with the holes for the wings to fix.... any other good ideas to set the whole thing up... my whole fuselage is not fixed properly... guess epoxy would also do the job.... looks like a lot lot of work ... is it worth it is it good fun to fly
Probably I’*m not precisely expressed. (Mine) Both half of the main wing are glued together and attached with a fuselage by two plastic screws (M4 x 23mm). It will not easy to make main wing apart for transportation. Probably need additional reinforcing spar.
I used clear tape to join my wings with the carbon spar inserted first, the tape can be removed and the wings separated if need be. Lots of gliders use tape to hold the wings together at the forces of flight are exerted on the main spar of the wings and wing joiner, there isn't much force trying to pull the wings apart, so tape is strong enough... :-)
Hi Patrick, this model is available at other places already fitted with a motor (Speedo Pro Mk III)so the kit will take the extra weight and forces of the conversion and would be very easy to convert and should be a good little slope/thermal flyer.
I have the I have the Speedo Mk II and its a great little flyer off the slope even on the lightest wind days its very easy to keep flying and fast too when the winds up.... :)
Has anyone from the beginning of the wing the CG? I built the plane and installed a towing coupling. I wanted to measure the CG and I looked in the manual: the CG is given by the tip of the aircraft.
My problem I have no peak at the aircraft more!
approximately> 100 g of lead in the great fit because the tail is very difficult.
So someone can give me the exact CG. Not from the top of the aircraft, but from another point of referenc.
Yesterday was my maiden fly. Ballast 80g. CG ~56 mm from wing leading edge. Not bad for start. But I feel need to be reduced and CG moved to tail. (According manual 230 mm from nose edge. I got near 40mm from the wing leading edge. I thing it's wrong data)
OK I have about two hours flying time on this thing and there are some tricks that I think will make this a great slope soarer. First off as said by others dont worry about the rudder, just set up elevator with Y to a single nano servo. I used Hitec S35 but the HK 500 will do the job I am sure. Mount that servo as far forward as you can because this thing is tail heavy. I made my own battery pack from AAANiMh cells two wide and two long. Dont worry about the weight you need it. Plus I have a goddam massive lump of lead in the nose and the C of G is still a long way back. The decalage appears to be out as I need to carry a lot of up elevator to trim to neutral. I will get the CofG right before messing with that but it appears that the wing needs about 1 degree of increased AOA to get the tail feathers to trim neatly. This thing is fast and slippery. Its very aerobatic but uses up lots of airspace. Its small and hard on the eyes for long periods as you cant let it get away on you and you will not relax a lot flying this. You need to be on it all the time or its gone.
Once I get the CofG sorted I will report back. If I need to modify the decalage it will be with a small piece of sticky foam strip on the fuselage so that wont be a problem.
All in all I would rate this kit about 6 or 7 out of ten. Its fun and thats the main thing....
Well this is not a beginners build thats for sure. The instruction page is total BS. Shows a single servo on the V Tail. Hard to figure out how that works eh!!!. The servo bays wont handle anything wider than 7mm and mount them well forward or they will push the covering up on the wing. I have used Hitec HS35 Nano servos. Fit perfectly. Will stagger the twin V Tail servos so as to get some space for the fat fingers installing the linkages. 350 MaH batt and SBEC 3A for power. Now all I need is a small enough ASSAN RX that will fit in this fuse. Its bloody small so the smallest 4 channel full range RX I can get will have to do.
" Shows a single servo on the V Tail. Hard to figure out how that works eh!!!"
its pretty common not to bother with the rudder on these when slope soaring them, so you only need one servo. you will probably never use the rudder on this, so why have it?
But a single servo only makes it a rudder. Sure you could Y the control linkage I suppose to get elevator only but the instruction manual shows the control horn with linkage connected to each side. If you done that your never going to get the nose up. I got tow nana servos fitted neatly so have it all now. I slope soar over ocean cliffs. It's a total loss if you miss getting it into lift as we can't get down to retrieve anything.
I started with an ASW28 which HK now sell and that is a good beginner motorised glider. I tried a few other styro planes including the Fox, but by far the best and easiest unpowered glider I've flown is the discus launched Blaster 2* construction is not the easiest but there are plenty of guides on how to do it. A little pricey but you get what you pay for, the wing is beautifully constructed. The small 3 channel ELF is also good but only in very light winds. This is my experience not an endorsement. Visit Hyperflight.
Dagored. No real reason why not. But you would need to reinforce the hook location as this fuselage is pretty flimsy. Its plenty good enough for the flying job but the high start would stress it pretty much.
Hello, I just ride my, I used 4 servants of 3, 7 g was ideal, and a battery of 360ma 2S and got well tight inside the fuselage, under the wing offers for usra servant of 4, 3 g, but is forcing upper wing side entelagem. In addition, I had to add more or less a 50 g of lead in front to hit the CG, the glider is very fast and extremely acrobatic.
porqui nice request. I was so wrapped up in old school think balsa is best for everything. Great call. You really should put it is as a suggestion to CS via a ticket. It is a good idea. There are a lot of powered full foam gliders here too. I hope this helps.
The closest currently available is the fully molded rocket-15. It's a little bigger at 1.5m vs this one 1.2m. At the price point, it seems to be a pretty decent glider, but a little work beyond simple assembly may be in order.
Shipping carriers calculate cost on a combination of weight and volume. Rather than have the price stated as $15 for 900g weight and 50c for every cm3 over 50dm3 it a lot clear to combine both and state shipping weight as 1520g.
Yes it is a great video, AndrewID, your video is soo cool!! Did not know he was insulted for calling the attacking bird a raven.... Your post above can be taken as that the pr..k is wrong in his statement, but now i understand what you meant. This is the World Wide Web, and english is not my first language....
it will be hard to fit 2 servos in the cockpit ,this does not need a rudder maybe build it as a elevator only.with twin push rods. the area under the wings needs support as it breaks there easily. to get correct cog you will need a heavy weight in the nose.
I made a plaster of paris mould of the nose and then poured lead into it. you will need the weight to be about 30mm long to get c of g right. these gliders are great. we fly in 10 to 15knots.they are fast and penetrate and are stable and acrobatic.
Ron, this grey fuselage is very strong. No wing suddle strengthening is needed. Mine, after an RX failure, dove from 20 meters up nose first on to a rock and nothing happened to the fuse. Not to mention countless cartwheels.
Ron, Andrew, Anlucas: How do you know any of this? Do you have one of these planes? It's not a Speedo, so why are you making all sorts of assumptions as though it was? Just because the photograph looks sort of like one?.
Andrew, how can you say it has the same airfoil? Speedo has RG15, this has HN354mod. That is why you cannot say they will fly the same: the airfoil is critical to how a glider performs.
And what do you mean by "rudder? ha ha"? It's a V-tail, so therefore has two control surfaces at the rear, so it can have rudder without further modification.
Cut the ****, we all know it's a (modified) speedo. I have an unbuilt one sitting in front of me. Looks like some hack has trimmed the canopy so it doesnt fit properly. As for the airfoil, puhleez, spare me. A built up, film covered wing at that scale, isn't anything, just an approximation of something. So they could claim it to be anything they like. Particularly when the rg15 and hn354 are so similar anyway.
The longer spar is probably an improvement. Gizzo is right, you need to fix the canopy. You also need to drop the price - a lot. The original is only $71 at R2hobbies. If it flys like a Speedo it will be an awesome plane.
trer bonne construction, met trer fin , les servos preconisez son pas bon il faux des tgy-1370a, pour les ailes et le fuselage,je vais fair des essai dimanche ,et surement une video a bientot
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appret installation des servos dans les aile ,c'est ok , met quelle servos mètre dans le fuselage?il faux vraiment du mini de cher mini , qui peux me dir quoi prendre
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premier essai hier , vol trer trer bien ,prend le moindre petit thermique , je vais en commander un autre rein à dire merci hobbyking
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ce n'est pas un planeur de début,prevoire des modification , comme changer les tringle rie, les servos, il faux des 3,7g, délassement du servos de commande de profondeur ce trouve au niveau du bord dataque ,et prevoire une petit platine,.le lipo ok ,il ce loge juste devent , et rajouter 15 g de plomb
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Flew my Wraith today in about 15knot winds and it was great!!!! Amazingly good penetration for such a small glider. Had 4 flights, 4 landings, no problems... I do not think this is for beginners since it is quick.