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There is plenty of rad in the RadJet-800! With its amazing price, EPO foam and being Plug and Fly, this brilliant model has no trouble earning the RadJet moniker.
The Radjet 800 has been tested and flown to within an inch of its life and it performed flawlessly, not only in terms of light performance but also reliability and believe me, we tried hard to kill the test version! Its a simple build with the motor, ESC an servos pre-installed, even the decals are pre-applied! It has several impressively simple and practical features such as the plastic skid on the length of the underside of the fuselage that will protect your Radjet from the usual tears and gouges, servo arm protectors on the wings, effective cooling for the ESC & Lipoly and so on.....and its how much?
But, it doesnt stop there, oh no! Whats it like to fly? Utterly brilliant! The light flying weight means that the outrunner motor gives tons of performance, the Radjet will pull massive loops and is capable of some pretty precise aerobatics, its quick, no doubt about it but throttle back and it becomes a total pussycat, fly it like you stole it or glide around, either way its a hoot! So to sum up, it looks great, its easy to assemble, flies brilliantly, is reliable, fast and cheap....Radjet? You better believe it!
You can do anything! it can even fly @ 1kg and still hand launch. cut the foam I crashed my first one because I didn't want to cut it , This one has 2 x 2200mah 3s 200amp ESC and an SK3 1900kv , stock servos still foam
Holy ****! 250kph is 155.343 mph!!! HaaaHaHa! Even with a wide apeture lens it was a blip. Great work man. I am now inspired to put my second kit together!
Yes Im scared to prop up to 6x6 or 6.5x6.5 imagine the thrust increase !!!
On your second kit consider the DrMadThrust 29mm inrunners there is a 4s 1300w 3000kv and a 6s 2200 1700w I think , I had the 6s but bent the shaft when the prop snapped ,another arriving soon in the mail $30 each, I will buy a 4s version as well (I think this will be the best set up for the radjet)
No it will not. But it will fly for a long time on the recommended 1300mah 3s. I have been flying this on a 1300mah 4s and it is really fun. You will like it.
hi guys ,
Do i need to glue on the top part of the fuselage ? , i see a couple of holes under the fuselage on the backpart but the arf doesnt come with any screws or so ?
i was wondering if i glue it on and i want to swap the ESC or the motor , i need to cut it all of and that could be a little tricky ?
Yes, you are supposed to glue it on....however, you could use some strong hobby magnets for the long skinny part of the fuselage. That is what I did and it made it easy to get to the ESC when I needed to.
Antonios... a 2200 is a pipe dream. Dont freakin do it. 3s 1300 is barely enough on a perfect launch to make it fly. You go and put a 2200 3s in it and youre screwed.
LOL ... it was a while ago when i posted this question and although i did not try the 2200 mAh i am pretty sure it wouldn't work for many reasons (from weight, space, CG, hand-launching, etc.). Yes, Morphine, you are correct!
Okay I need a faster radjet. Can someone help me out with a insane set up. What motor, esc,prop, and battery.
I have a 3000kv set up on three cell right now, but it's become slow to me
That motor will be better than my current setup ?
I'm running NTM Prop Drive 28-36 3000KV / 755W,TURNIGY TRUST 55A SBEC Brushless Speed Controller, apc 6x4 prop, on three s.
why do you sell a plane ,the rad jet with a motor not powerfull enough to fly a flea i have 50 yrs experencein this hobby and it not rocket scienceto see.
it's not that the motor is not powerful enough victor. i thought that was the problem at first with mine, but it turned out to be that the cg is so far off with the stock equip I had to stuff my battery way back in the fuselage so that the front of the battery was flush with the back of the battery box (instead of in the battery box) Then it flew great!
I haven't seen too many fleas that can fly around at about 70 mph! Stock motor, 1800 3cell,30 amp esc. And yes, you have to put the batt way back in the fuse to get a good cg. most plane I have owned require a diff cg than the instructions call for........so do your homework before you go for your first flight with any plane. There is plenty of info on here and other popular rc blogs .
Great little plane! Flew one stock, then upgraded to 2826 2200kV Turnigy motor, then bought 3 more kits to make two experimental planes. target=_blank>Xperimental Rad
Dudley, I didn't even fly it stock. I just tore it down and did the upgrade. I wanted it insane fast, a 11.1v 2200 25c fits in nice and balances the plane great. I also can fit a 4 cell 2600 that makes it just a little nose heavy that I will probably try as well.
How do I get spare parts for my read jet? I just got it the other day and replaced the servos with metal gear one, the esc, and motor this thing should scream. I can't wait to take it out, just waiting on the new esc. I bought the turnigy one with data logging but its too big.
So I just got this in the mail today...set it up with the recommended/stock set up. Went to fly it and it will not climb at all. Thought maybe my Tx was set up wrong so I checked it out. Everything is set up right. Got pretty good control deflection. Still won't climb. I saw some stuff about the CG being off. what do I do to fix that? also, I bought the plug and fly version, so SUPPOSEDLY, I should be able to just put it together, put my own Rx and batt in and should be good to go. It's not. Anyone thing HK will send me a replacement since this one doesn't work as it's supposed to?
Does the model appear to be flying fast enough,do you have the prop on the correct way around,the front of the prop should be facing towards the front of the aeroplane,a lot of people put the prop on backwards on pusher aircraft and this reduces the power to nearly half.I have flown one of these stock Radjets and they go really well,not short of power.
Yeah, the prop is on right. Gotta say you made me second guess myself so I went out and flipped it around and tested it though.lol. I really think it's a CG issue. Plane is really Nose heavy with the battery in....even when it's as far back as it can go in the battery bay. I really don't want to add any dead weight to the rear, but I think I have to. Do you agree?
have you set your throttle end points with the ESC? also make sure your throttle trim is at zero rebind and try again. It should try to fly out of your hand at half throttle. Also make sure your battery is fully charged and tested as good. even nose heavy the plane will pull up. make sure all control surfaces are free from any binding. Also balance your prop.
No, I have not set my throttle end points. How do you do that? does seem to want to leave your hand at about 3/4 throttle. still won't climb though. Just fixed the cg problem. Hope that helps.Batteries and control surfaces are fine. Don't know how to balance the prop either.
you tube how to balance your prop. Its essential to know this if you plan on flying. to set throttle preferably with prop off. turn on TX and set your throttle trim all the way down. then push throttle stick to maximum. plug in model count 2 seconds then pull throttle stick to minimun ESC should sound off. I am unsure what ESC is in your model but if that doesnt work you might try to find the manual for your ESC on here. what size battery do you have? are you sure its charged and balanced? is your thrust angle off at all?
If you measure the CG from the finger holds or from the nose you get points that are 10mm apart. Use the measurement from the nose which is the rear most point and then go 5mm more to the rear, this is where I fly mine. On your first flight try to cut back to half throttle after hand launching as this plane picks up speed really fast.
If you are using anything larger than a 950mah pack you will have to push it into the tunnel. A 1300mah pack should be exposed about 13mm or 1/2" out of the tunnel. I use a 1000mah nano-tech that sits at the rear of the battery bay and I had to add one US quarter to the tail to make the CG right. This will not be too touchy pitch wise.
Flown one of these many times and it does not need rudders for general flying,would be good though for flat spins and other aerobatic flick type manouvre's,there is certainly room for 2 micro servo's to be let into the foam near the rudders.
You did a great job, did you do any crash proofing? like adding any Carbonfiber to your RadJet? if so what size and how did you do it?, thanks so much.
Use glue and clear packaging tape to cover joints. Then stock setup is strong enough. With tuned setup Im using 3mm carbon rod crosswise from wingtip to another wing. Nose will hold hard landings, if you add carbon rod lengthwise inside the plane. See video starting 2min25sec.
it has almost no tolerance for crashes, but it is easy to fix. The main thing that brakes off is the wings. They come unglued. The nose brakes off in one piece when you have a hard landing or a crash. I reinforced the nose with balsa.
I've never had my RadJet's wings come off, I would suggest you use stronger glue or more of it if the wings pop off *)... yikes! The main weak spot is that long nose, it does break in a crash but is very easily repairable with hot glue or CA.
I put some good crashes on mine and it still looks good. Before i started flying it I reinforced the weak points with fiber tape. Today i tried to do some stunts and crashed it pretty bad and it rolled several times but the tape held it together and the only thing that came off was the canopy
Yes esc is fine, 3c-1300mah is the recommended battery...Just make sure you get the CG correct....i had to move my 1300 way back ..i had to remove foam(i actually heated a piece of metal and melted foam to make room)...the recommended CG in manual will make radjet nose heavy...Checkout youtube radjet video's
My motor is not the one shown in the picture, but it is the stock setup. On take off, it takes up elevator, but it is too tippy with the battery in the recommended place. I had to cut the bottom part of the canopy off to move the battery forward.
Excellent video Snake. I have 3 of those NTM 35-36 motors and never dreamed the RadJet could balance out until I saw the 6s then it made sense. I like your helmet cam and tripod. Definately excellent viewer experience when planning goes into the video setup. Keep on rocking it!
They are great motors, I know it isnt rated for 6s but its bee fine so far.
I have found that I get better footage of my planes using the headcam then I get when someone films it for me. O_o
You can upgrade to this motor PRODUCT ID: AXN-2208-2150 and use the same ESC, use with a 5x5 prop or smaller. If you change to a 30 amp ESC then it will take a 6x4 prop and be much better at launch and top end. You can also use a 4s battery if cut out room for it and use the same ESC with yet a smaller prop 4.5x4.5 Recheck your CG on all new changes.
Going to a higher cell count you will increase voltage = higher RPM, you must use a smaller prop and less pitch for less amperage draw (heat). The ESC and motor will handle the voltage increase but not the load of the same size prop/pitch (leverage).
hey im thinking about buying this plane. buy i dont know what radio i need to buy. i know it says tx/ rx 4 channel with elevon mixing but i dont really know what that is. can anyone recommend a system that i can use with this. anything below 30 bucks would be great if not then not much of a problem. ty
You can just use a standard 4 channel transmitter and add a mixer the two servos between two channels (elevator and rudder is the intended use, but will mix any two channels. Quick Search mixer.
Hi Guys. Bought this plane and first two hand launches saw it nose dive. Third hand launch at 3/4 throttle and 45 degrees. First 2 seconds were terrifying until i got it in control. Then 10 seconds later it was a dot in the horizon. 1 second later it disappeared in the sugar cane ( Aussie sugar cane= taipan snakes= certain death = mad place to go for a walk looking for planes) . So my Radjet lasted 15 seconds and somewhere there is a Cane Toad sitting in the cockpit.
Need to mix a little "reflex" into this plane. Reflex is up elevator on the launch. The plane flies best with "up" in. This is a small plane, not for beginners, so keep it close. It does "get small fast", but, has a wide speed envelope and will slow to just above walking speed (full up, low throttle, will flat spin like this if you are not careful). I like lot's of expo, about 70% with full throws. Great fun!
I dont know how effective a rudder would be on this o1. Mine yaws side to side a little when im not running it fast so I know the vertical stab is doing its job. I too would like to see some rudder mixing with elevons on this bird. It sure is fun on stock setup with 4s. o1 check the video files and watch the upgraded RadJet. Its cool.
I wouldnt try it. 3s 1300 is adequate when you hand launch at WOT. 2200 would most likely be way too heavy and i wouldnt even attempt it. You are going to be pleased how long you can fly on the 1300 3s.
You will have a hard time balancing it with a 2100 with the recommended 1300 you have to put the battery as far back as it will go.... It's a great flying jet ..... It reminds me of the old multiplex micro jet
I've done this. Works ok but you need to cut some foam off so you can push the lipo back. Some more velcro and tape and its just fine.
Customer Reviews
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waterlogged
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B>uilding this was a doddle. Everything was supplied and just about everything was already done. All I had to do was plug in the receiver, connect the leads to the servos which were already set up ready to plug together and the usual drop in a couploe of servos and connect them up plus a 1300 battery.
It's been very well built with everything actually fitting together with no force or re-alignment. All the wiring for the motor and ESC is already done. Very tidy too. All the artwork was attached. It was way too easy for such an inexpensive plane. Even the finish of the entire kit was shouting "I'm Expensive" but it wasn't. You really couldn't get something so well made for that cost. What really floored me was the cover for the bottom of the fuse. Why doesn't every plane which lands on it's belly come with one? A great idea I hope catches on. Unfortunately Inwas toon crook to go flying this afternoon so I asked my mate to try it out. Now he wants one and a few others have said the same. He reckons it was a real pussycat for a few minutes until he had it dialed in and then it turned into a rocket. He said he had that much fun he neer even flew his own plane. And I'm happy to say he returned it with just a hint of green on it's belly.
To sum up, a great purchase a great plane and a great price and it was fun building it. Well done HK. Small things in small packages are good
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mrstude
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Good flyer, pretty easy to build. the prop in not a reverse pitch though. probably would be faster if it had one. Can't beat it though for the money ! A
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Robert
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Nicely packaged, arrived w/o damage. Just few issues first give the builders some more glue allowances, it you want it right just take anything that comes preglued apart scrape off the booger that's holding it on and use 5min of hot glue or some glue. Mine was so shy on glue I could just pull it apart with light effort, add hinges to elevators I put servos inabit deeper opened channel on top of wing now its a lot harder to strip servo on belly landings motor was not balanced and sounded gritty just not much go. Speed controller a bit weak. 30amp would be better and I used a 1920kv from hobby people and 7x5 prop halls ass and with 2200 20c 1/2 throttle goes straight up at full you Caint look away close your eyes or blink cuz it will just vanish. Fast fun no beginners and blistering roll rate . Good clean cheap thrills. If they used glue 5 star...
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morphine
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Several flights and I'm absolutely impressed with this plane. 3s and 4s 1300 sky-lipo no problems. It performs superbly on 3s and just continues to deliver smiles and is perfectly quick enough to suit me. Perfect 3s maiden and greased the landing and the prop broke. Second flight 3s the prop broke again on a perfect landing. APCE 5x5 no more broken props!
CG.......on Sky-Lipo 1300 3s place it on its side back inside the fuse and leave 1" sticking out into the compartment. Place a piece of velcro on the exposed part of the battery and a mating piece of velcro on the underside of the canopy and add a rubber band to the canopy. Put rx in the nose. The elevon adjustment for the launch should be up 1/4" up past flush with body and launch WOT.
On 4s 1300 Sky-Lipo I would recommend a cool-off period between high speed runs because the motor will get pretty warm. CG on 4s same as 3s.
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Ken
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Just put mine together and had 5 flights on this thing today. SO i am new to this hobby and this thing as way faster than any of my other planes. I did a little practice on the sim with the stryker model, just didn't use the rudder. Went to RC groups and followed the suggestion to move the CG back about just past the wing tab. To do this with the recommended Turnigy nano-tech 1300mah 3Cell battery you have to pull some of the turtle shell out and cut some foam, while i was in there moved the ESC back a little bit also. With that battery it will be about a quarter inch or so inside the foam. The stock prop was only pulling about 15 amps on the 3 cell, so upped the prop to a 6x5.5e apc and it pulls a shade over 18amps. With this setup almost zero trim needed to make it fly great, landings were a breeze and i was running in 10-15mph winds. Its pretty darn fast for only pulling 18amps. I may experiment with other props on a 3 cell, but seems this setup is solid. The motor rotation is set up stock to use standard props, no need to get pushers!
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